Highlights of 2016 and 2017 trips schedule!

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Kelly low down on Astroman on the boulder problem.

Its been an exciting 2016. It began with Krabi Rock Trips running multi pitch course in the limestone mecca followed by Taiwan Rock Trip in spring. During the spring season we also started the Titanium Bolting Project in Taiwan. A very interesting summer in Yosemite this year with some spare time after work to climb in the High Sierra. Now autumn is over and winter is setting in as we get ready for the last group to do their SNCS Rock Level 1 course (trad climbing) in Long Dong Taiwan before going through the entire cycle again.

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We want to thank all the participants who have traveled with us for courses and guided trips. Its been a great year and I true fully enjoyed guiding and teaching every one of those courses.

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Guiding and teaching beautiful and happy people is part of the joy of my work.

This autumn was plagued by continuous typhoon hits in Taiwan bringing lots of rain and bad weather in Oct. Fortunately, our participants were mostly not affected by the bad weather and instead most of them enjoyed the dry winter with the most climbing days available in Dec ever!

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Post typhoon – Tags of unsafe routes everywhere on the ground being blown away from their original positions. Something that has happen year after year without anything done to those unsafe routes.
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In May 2016 I’ve decided to start replacing old and failing hardware after seeing how bad the conditions are. These are the first set of bolts I bought from Tonsai BaseCamp. Elke’s been great help filling me in on details of how Tonsai did it.
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Then we placed replaceable hardware, Ram’s horns on the TI U bolt anchors.

Apart from guiding and teaching, majority of the rest days were dedicated to Titanium Bolting Project in Taiwan. Till date, we have replaced 253 bolts in Long Dong. In total we have made 117 routes in Long Dong safer for climbers. Here’s the list,

Back door
45 Olive branch – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
46 Who fooled who – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
47 Vita – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
48 Yum Yum TI U bolts
49 Everybody’s welfare – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
50 Incomparable – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
51 Xiao Ao Jiang Hu – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn

Golden Valley
101 Lap Dance – TI U bolts
102 Rastafarian Birds – TI U bolts
103 Dangerous Games – TI U bolts
104 Stalker – TI U bolts
105 Psycho Killer – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
106 BA insanity – TI U bolts
107 Cunning Linguist – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
108 Love you long time – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
109 Fillet show – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
110 Happy ending TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
111 Cat’s away – TI U bolts
128 Pearl Necklace – TI U bolts
129 Bring the Betal Nut – TI U bolts
130 Gold Line – TI U bolts
131 Golden Shower – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
132 Golden Rod- TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
133 Gold Member – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
134 Gold Club – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn

Second Cave
194 Weibin’s Route – TI U bolts
196 Yum Yum hard work – TI U bolts
197 Back porch Saloon – TI U bolts
198 Taiwan Down amigo – TI U bolts
205 Crack a smile – TI U bolts
206 Hammer Time – TI U bolts
207 Stone Age – TI U bolts
208 Manic Crack – TI U bolts
209 Face off – TI U bolts
210 Manic Crack 2 – TI U bolts
211 Left Arch – Entire route rebolted U bolts + ram’s Horn
212 Have a leg – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
213 Zhong Jiang soup – Entire route Eterna
214 Luck Streaks – TI U bolts
215 keep your chalk dry – TI U bolts
216 Grotto – TI U bolts
217 Box of rain – TI U bolts
218 Rain Dance – TI U bolts
219 Box of rain – TI U bolts
220 Rain on my parade – TI U bolts
221 Singing in the rain – TI U bolts

First cave
239 Taipei Flower – Entire Route U bolts
240 Building on Building – Entire Route U bolts
241 Project – Entire Route U bolts
242 Agar Jelly – Entire Route U bolts
278 Happy Valentines Day – Eterna Lead & TI U bolts
279 Wilson Over hang – TI U bolts
280 Fen Yuan Trap – Eterna Lead & TI U bolts
281 Heaven’s falling – Eterna Lead & TI U bolts
282 Deceiving arete- Eterna Lead & TI U bolts
285 Reggae – TI U bolts
286 Calypso – TI U bolts
287 Clean Face – Entire Route U bolts
289 Walkway – Entire Route U bolts
290 Noodle line – TI U bolts
291 History – Entire Route U bolts
292 Dragon Arete – Entire Route U bolts
299 Taiwan Rechao – Eterna Lead & TI U bolts
300 Notebook – Eterna Lead & TI U bolts
301 Wisteria – Eterna Lead & TI U bolts
302 Cape to the sky – Eterna Lead & TI U bolts

Grand Auditorium
323 Arupa – Eterna Lead & TI U bolts
326 Verdon Du Taiwan – Eterna Lead
327 Provence Roof – Eterna Lead & TI U bolts

Music Hall
339 Nancy’s attempt – 1 TI U bolt
Red dates mochi – Ti U bolts
365 Nut pitch – Ti U bolts
366 Board Chimney – Ti U bolts
367 Fucking fall – Ti U bolts
368 Long Fatang- Ti U bolts
369 Big Drum – Ti U bolts
370 Frustration – Ti U bolts
371 Finger crack – Ti U bolts
372 Musical Arete – Ti U bolts
386 Wedding Route – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
387 Northeast coast – TI U bolts + Ram’s Horn
394 RH 5 – Ti U bolts
401 Balcony Dihedral – Ti U bolts
402 Balcony Seven – Ti U bolts
403 Balcony Cruise – Ti U bolts
404 Balcony party – Ti U bolts
409 Harmless slab – Eterna Anchors
410 Harmless Horror – Eterna Anchors
411 Harmless Corner – Eterna Anchors
412 Harmless Sheild – Ti U bolts
413 Peaceful Sword – Ti U bolts
414 Shield – Ti U bolts
415 Sword – Ti U bolts
416 Easy dick – Ti U bolts
417 Moby Dick – Ti U bolts
419 Captain Ahab – Ti U bolts
420 Call me Ishmael – Ti U bolts

Long Lane
436 Virtues on Street signs – Ti U bolts + ram’s horn
437 Zhong xiao – Ti U bolts + ram’s horn
438 Renai – Ti U bolts + ram’s horn
439 Xinyi – Ti U bolts
440 Heping – Ti U bolts
441 Fear only fear itself – Ti U bolts
443 Reach for the sky – 1 TI U and 1 Eterna anchor
444 Long Lane dihedral – 1 TI U and 1 Eterna anchor

School Gate
527 Fight – Ti U bolts
528 Don’t Look down – Ti U bolts
529 Disco Fist Crack – Ti U bolts
530 Don’t look down – Ti U bolts
531 Right Disco Fist crack – Ti U bolts
532 Triple – Ti U bolts
533 Tripple crux – Ti U bolts
534 Inimitable – Ti U bolts
551 Tiger Tooth – Ti U bolts
552 Surprise crack – Ti U bolts
565 First Corner – Ti U bolts
566 Above the groove – Ti U bolts

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Sustainable bolting, trying to use as many old bolt holes as possible as well as using the best products that is available in the market with a good track record. Its a long term investment.

 

Looking forward to 2017, we are going to have a exciting year ahead. Here’s how the travel schedule will look like,

January – Chiang Mai and Krabi

Feb – March – Krabi (SNCS Sports Level 3 and guided climbing trips) 

April – Mid May – Taiwan ( SNCS Sports level 3 and Rock Level 1 courses) 

May – USA (Upgrading course with AMGA) 

June – July ( Yosemite Rock Trip) 

August – Sept ( Taiwan Summer Rock Trip ) 

Sept – (Japan Mizugaki pilot trip) 

 Oct – Dec – Taiwan (SNCS Sports Level 3, Rock Level 1 and Instructor Training course) 

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Kelly being the rope gun with Kim Boon holding the end of the rope.
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Me hanging out on the rope with Kim Boon cleaning the traverse on Pitch 4 of South Face

Mark down your calendar and tick that new year resolution list! Be it a big wall climb or just learning how to trad climb or running up that first multi pitch, we are happy to have you out here climbing with us!

Wishing everyone a great 2017 and safe climbs!

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We hope to climb with you soon!

 

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