A long overdue photo shoot that should have been done months ago. First attempt at it with Garick Bay from expressively jOhO, ended up with a gashed toe and wet gear. We didn’t even get 2m off the ground. Needless to say, the shoot ended without any cool photos. My fault for wearing flip flops to the crag.
I was in Taiwan talking to Matt Robertson from MTI, The Mountain Training Institute LLC, about his new guide book on Long Dong which was long overdue (promised to be out last year). It crossed my mind that I could help to sponsor this great cause of a new guide book for the amazing rock climbing area in Long Dong.
Matt Robertson and I came a long way, we first met under Tidal Wave in Tonsai, both of us being such social sluts, can’t help but to chat up with each other. Subsequently he took me go climbing in one of the gyms in Hsinchu, Iclimb, when I was in Taipei. Iclimb kinda reminds me of mini camp 5 and I thought I should return to climb on the rocks instead of the gym next time when I’m in Taiwan.
It took me another 3 years before returning to Taiwan when Kelly and I decided we should go climb El Cap and get some more trad experience in a established trad crag. We ended up in Long Dong for our first training session, we learned how to climb various sizes of cracks. Matt was also around to help us during our stay there and even offered us his Black Diamond Camalot 6 and aiders to do some aid climbing training on Great Roof.
So we ended in Dairy Farm, for a photo op with Jordan from Iclimb Inc and Chuan from Photonolgy. Jordan and I started rigging the climb at about 4.45 and finished at about 6.15pm just in time when Chuan got here. We got this cool 3 way rigging going on so Chuan could have a nice angle suspended in the air.
I was kinda out of shape after recovering from a fever and could still feel the effects of oily brasied pork rice from Taiwan. I sent Super Crack a year ago and was super psych then as it was one of the to do list before El Cap. This time when I get my fat ass on the crack i felt the jams is not so secure and the wall still a little wet from the 2 days of rain. In other words i was struggling at the crux for the photo shoot. Well, we got it done anyway and this is how the final product going to look like in the Taiwan Guide Book.
Im going to get the Taiwan guide book as soon as its printed and those who are interested in visiting the place can look for me to get a copy of that book!
Also look out for 2012 Taiwan Trad Climbing Courses and Trips during Summer with me! Happy Chinese New Year to all and enjoy bak Kwa (ing) while Im in holy land of Brunei… =(