Winter training starts…

It’s winter and it is climbing season in Long Dong. It is this time of the year that people tick hard grades and start working on their projects. You will also see less leisure climbing crowd in the coast. Which means you hear less spraying and see more climbing done out here. This winter I have focus on training instead of ticking hard routes. I would work on harder trad routes when cracks are dry (a rarity in winter) and jump on circuits which I have created for myself when climbing cracks are not quite an option.

Xiao Xiang and I working on Taiwan Down Amigos. Each of us took 3-4 tries on the route before sending.

Notable climbs I made this winter is sending Taiwan Down Amigos 12c on trad. My first 12c trad sent and I’m psych to tick off other hard trad routes in First and Second cave.  Power endurance training has started and feel free to add or take out climbs, these are just reference for my training for 2016 summer season. Hope these inspire you to get out and start lead climbing!

Mr Weng on 笑傲江湖, a mega classic 12c in the Backdoor sector

Stephen’s Circuit (3hrs)

New Ferrari – 11c

Big Rock Falling – 12a

Coach Demonstrates – 12b

笑傲江湖 -12c

Qx’s Circuit (3.5hours)

I’m actually still working on this one and I definitely feel pain all over my body right now after the circuit yesterday. I could not climb Incomparable the legit way and have trouble clearing the last roof.

Everybody’s Welfare – 11a

Big Rock Falling – 12a

Motorcycle – 12c

Incomparable (TR) – 13a

Musical HIT (1hr circuit)

HIT for climbing, focused on volume in short timing,

Fucking Fall – 11a (trad)

Big Drum – 11b (TR)

Finger Crack – 11c (TR)

Musical Arete – 12b (TR)

Wedding Day – 5.8 (trad down lead)

Due to the bolts conditions, the routes on the Music Hall left face are not climbable. I would suggest climbing Fucking Fall on trad and get all the way up to the anchors of Wedding route and build a trad anchor. Use that anchor as a top rope and down climb Wedding route, that will avoid using the Petzl Collinox bolts on this walls which are considered unsafe.

Drink loads of water and have a energy bar in between! Hot chocolate in winter is a boost! Have fun everyone! I will keep posting new circuits!

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