Taiwan 2014 trad climbing!

I understand a post is way overdue on this blog and I apologise to all readers who have been following my blog. Its just been a crazy block since I got back from Taiwan and getting ready for our big trip to US and after our summit of Mount Watkins which marks the completion of the triple crown or climbing the 3 biggest faces in Yosemite via their main routes, I finally feel I can take a break and write a entry!

Me and Kelly on the summit of Mount Watkins via South Face (Trip report on that coming up!)
Me and Kelly on the summit of Mount Watkins via South Face (Trip report on that coming up!)

Before all these madness, we spend a month in Taiwan with great people and new faces who decided to step forward to learn this amazing skill of trad climbing. The first step to becoming a big wall climber is to have good trad climbing skill and know how to place gear. And I have to say we have 12 more climbers from Singapore have taken that big step!

Great weather, bleed fingers and my wife's monkey face.
Great weather, bleed fingers and my wife’s monkey face.

April – May weather in Taiwan is good, from cooling weather in April it gradually turns warm towards May as the summer approaches. We have many days off good climbing weather except for a 4 day block when it was time for Kelly and I to climb, it started to rain really hard. I guess plum monsoon gotta live up to its name!

Some sandstone action at School gate
Some sandstone action at School gate

Most participants come for a 4 day trip over a weekend and taking 2 days off the week. They would fly into Taoyuan International Airport via a overnight flight via Scoot and arrive at 6am (tiring!) or flight via Tiger or other airlines the night before for me to pick them up at a near by train station like Fulong or Ruifang train station.

Great weather in April and May. View of Bitou Cape.
Great weather in April and May. View of Bitou Cape.

The first day would be learning the ropes of placing gears and lead climbing on trad gears. Of course our training is relative to participants abilities level. If you are confident on rocks and have a flair with trad gears, we can move really fast and climb many interesting things in the coast. Having said that, we go progressive and gear you up to leading your first trad route on easy routes 5.5 – 5.6 YDS.

Learning to place gears! The first lesson in Second Cave! Great outdoor classroom when it showers in Long Dong!
Learning to place gears! The first lesson in Second Cave! Great outdoor classroom when it showers in Long Dong!
Learning the jamming techniques
Jie Ling learning the jamming techniques

The second day is usually doing some revision, learning how to build anchors and getting off a typical trad route setting up a abseil. These are all important skills to learn when you are leading any kind of routes outdoor. So even if you do not like trad climbing by now (which I do not think so) you still get to learn very important skills in a safe and beautiful environment.

Sek Koon from KL on anchor building and learning how to get off a climb
Sek Khoon from KL on anchor building and learning how to get off a climb

The third day is spent climbing some of the more beautiful single pitch routes in Long Dong or also known as the Long Dong classic trad climbs like,

Jie Ling on Sea Crack 5.6 School gate sector
Jie Ling on Sea Crack 5.6 School gate sector
Tom on Bomb Fuse 5.8 Clock tower sector
Tom on Bomb Fuse 5.8 Clock tower sector
Kay on Golden Shower 5.9 Golden Valley sector
Kay on Golden Shower 5.9 Golden Valley sector
Nicole on Images of Yosemite 5.10a Golden Valley Sector
Nicole on Images of Yosemite 5.10a Golden Valley Sector

As usual we have surprise for everyone before they go home and there is a choice to climb a offwidth multi pitch Via Del Drago 5.10 in Grand Auditorium sector or climb to a sea cliff tower in Long Dong on Clock Tower. Whichever option the group chooses they get to experience the true adventure of climbing and getting up to see a beautiful view of the North east coast of Taiwan in a unique way.

Those unfamiliar with the wide jamming technique will love this climb. Some scraps and bruise guaranteed!
Those unfamiliar with the wide jamming technique will love this climb. Some scraps and bruise guaranteed!
The party of 4 + 1(photographer) hanging out on the ledge of Via Del Drago
The party of 5 + 1(photographer) hanging out on the ledge of Via Del Drago
Elton on the access pitch of Via Del Drago
Elton on the access pitch of Via Del Drago
Enjoying the view from top of Clocktower!
Enjoying the view from top of Clocktower!

 

Easy routing on the last day with Sek Khoon at Golden Valley
Easy routing on the last day with Sek Khoon at Golden Valley

This trip, Kelly and I have not been trad climbing a lot as we are just working on strength and power training for our upcoming projects in Yosemite. Did a whole load of climbing in Backdoor trying to send every route in the 5.12 range there. Not quite successful but we will get there!

Kelly working the muscles on Coach Demonstrates 5.12
Kelly working the muscles on Coach Demonstrates 5.12

Taiwan Trad Climbing will be back in October 2014 so check the flight tickets and book your flight early! We are already half booked for the trip so get in touch with us really soon with your timings and we will get a tailored course or itinerary for you soon!

Taiwan Trad climbing 2014

Learn trad climbing!
Learn trad climbing!

 

 

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2 thoughts on “Taiwan 2014 trad climbing!

  1. Hello, how much is the trad climbing in taiwan?I’ll be in taiwan in end May-early Jun. Will there be a course there?

    1. Hi Xinyi,

      The next trad course I run will be in Oct in Taiwan. We leave Taiwan 12 of May and the last course is 7-10th May 2015. 31st onwards, our trips are to US, Yosemite.

      Let me know if you are interested to come out here to join us!

      Cheers
      Qx
      qxadventures@gmail.com

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