Super Crack, 5.12, American Pie, Dairy Farm – SINGAPORE

Yes, Its in Singapore and none other than Dairy Farm – Our backyard crag.

Its been sometime since I posted a blog, I am busy and i feel that my soul is splitting apart with so many things to do. I have tons of video in my Mac Pro to edit, just finished shooting Boulder Active 2011 over the weekend, working on my slacklining tricks and of course i still have my day job.

A weeetabit too much but I’m coping, at least i think i am.

I set my sight on a local project since i haven’t got any leave to go overseas for a climbing trip (Boss if you are reading) as i blew all my leaves on my upcoming Yosemite Trip in June. Like most of the other Singaporean climbers, I don’t really visit our backyard crag so much. Complaining that there is too much mosquitos, it’s dirty, it rains too much, its too sunny and oh yes the all time favourite ‘so many loose rocks’ . Ok I’m not bitching, its not the best place but its all we’ve got. =)

So, Super Crack direct, is rumor to be 5.12ish. Im not sure, You Rui says it is, Climb Singapore guide book says? So, that is a good training for awkward jamming and serious crack climbing without some cheater face holds. I top roped it like 8 times and I confirmed it to be the hardest shit I am going to do on trad. The friction is not Yosemite friction, with sweaty palms like mine doesn’t help much. In fact in the humid Singapore weather, I’m always drenched from head to toes after top roping it.

I set my mind on red pointing it today, placing all gears on lead, thinking that I’ve got all the moves. I did a warm up climb on top rope and was spitted out of the crack on the first and second crux of the route. I lost all my foot work and all the sequence and was totally frustrated. I was about to give up, when You Rui suggested a new sequence on the second crux, i tried it on top rope and found the movement slightly easier and the jamming was more secure!

I got lowered to the ground. Rested and waited for my body to dry up from all the sweat. Went on second attempt on top rope again, placing gears on the way up. This time i had problems at the first crux, as i couldn’t get a good jam before the deadpoint to the gaston crack. That was the single most difficult move in the whole route and not very far off from the ground with a Camalot .4 below your feet. If i missed the gaston, chances is i will kick the belayer in his face or i could find myself standing on the ground shooting both my knees. It was a commit and give it all you have move.

I top roped it the 3rd time and it was the best attempt I have got on this route. I knew i was ready.

Rested. Pulled the rope down.

The rest is in the video. As i couldn’t afford a film crew, i shot this in my Go Pro with a tripod. So you could only see me working on the first and second crux. The crux before the anchor was burly as I was tired and i screwed up my sequence but went for it anyway. I clipped the chains on my 8th climb or my first lead attempt which is the attempt in the video. My first 5.12 on trad, another milestone.

Thanks to Campers Corner who is Sponsoring a Black Diamond Double Cabana Porta Ledge for my El Cap climb. To my faithful belayer You Rui, despite a ITB injury with a swollen knee still went garang with me to Dairy Farm. Last but not least, thanks to the crack which swallowed my Size 2 Camalot now i have to buy another one.. damn it =(

Live an adventure
Qx