2 Weeks in Yosemite..

It has been 2 weeks in Yosemite and since we touched down in LAX it has been a wild time. This time Kelly and I both quitted our jobs and planned a year’s trip to climbing mainly in US and Europe. First stop is US in California and we are stopping by Yosemite again and trip to climb a little more than the last trip we had in 2011. So this will be a exciting year ahead with loads of traveling and climbing in many different parts of the world!

Arriving in LAX with 4 big bags that wArriving in LAX with 4 big bags that weigh almost 90kg! eigh almost 90kg!
Arriving in LAX with 4 big bags that weigh almost 90kg!

Touched down in LAX and had 2 day rest in a motel in Inglewood which is pretty near to the airport. The whole idea was to buy a used car so we spend less on car rental this trip. So we ended up with this! A used 2003 Honda Odyssey 3.5l EX-L model which is large enough to put my family in it and still have my whole storeroom traveling with me! It will be our room for next 3 months during days which we do not have a tent with us or when we go wild camping!

Car camping in our Honda nickname Ah Pek..
Car camping in our Honda nickname Ah Pek..

Slowly drove our way up to Yosemite and met up with Chad in Flying Spur. He has moved to a new place from his old bivy HQ in Foresta and this place is much larger with his friend Jason staying in there. As usual, we stay in a tent in his garden enjoying the great outdoors and the privilege of staying in Yosemite for the trip.

Chad and Jason's Bivy HQ
Chad and Jason’s Bivy HQ
Our home for next few months!
Our home for next few months!

Climbing has been up to a slow start and this time we really wanted to work on our jamming techniques and climb various sizes of cracks and get Kelly to lead a bit more in this granite environment. So we started on our fav warm up on After 7,5.8 and swapping leads on the climb. I get my fav first pitch with the nice run out and long climb to the ledge to belay.

High up on the second multi pitch of the day Selaginella with a wild traverse
High up on the second multi pitch of the day Selaginella with a wild traverse
Great Views and great climbs only in Yosemite!
Great Views and great climbs only in Yosemite!
My first 10b in Yosemite, Church Bowl Tree!
My first 10b in Yosemite, Church Bowl Tree! Thin finger crack with pin scars

We also started cragging quite a bit just to get into shape and climb different kind of cracks like Generator crack 10C off width which made me want to puke after climbing it. The crack is strenuous & wide and you can’t fit a hand or a feet in there, neither can you fit your body in it. Its weird and hard and you are constantly slipping and ripping skin of your body. The top of Generator crack is also a nice squeeze chimney for us to practice our squeezing skills. Well.. of course the day ended with bleeding, backaches(still having it now) and loads of bruises. If you stop by the road and hear Kelly screaming, you would think a murder is taking place at the back of the rock.

You will question yourselves before climbing it.. Actually I'm fitting in nicely eh?
You will question yourselves before climbing this.. Actually I’m fitting in the crack nicely eh?

We are now moving into endurance phase of our training and climbing long days on route which either have long approach like the Higher Cathedral Spire or a long climbing day like the East Buttress of El Cap. It’s a different experience, reading the guide book and knowing the history of the climb and getting to the real peak like the Higher Cathedral Spire. The view is great and after you climbed it , you understand why it was a test piece back then.

Kelly getting ready for the long day on El Cap, East Buttress 10B
Kelly getting ready for the long day on El Cap, East Buttress 10B
On one of the many belay ledge thinking about dinner plans with El Cap looming over us
On one of the many belay ledge thinking about dinner plans with El Cap looming over us
Kelly on the crux pitch 10b with a weird flaring grove.
Kelly on the crux pitch 10b with a weird flaring grove.
Getting ready to climb the short laid back pitch. The best pitch on East Buttress IMHO
Getting ready to climb the short laid back pitch. The best pitch on East Buttress IMHO and yes.. its that windy and cold when you are high up.
Kelly climbing that lay back pitch
Kelly climbing that lay back pitch
On top of the 13 pitches! Time to get down East Ledges!
On top of the 13 pitches! Time to get down East Ledges!

All in all we are having a blast in the Valley and we are hoping to get on a big climb either a big wall or something hard next week. See how the body is feeling and will just go with the flow.

View from top of Higher Cathedral Spire. The highest Spire in North America
View from top of Higher Cathedral Spire. The highest Spire in North America
There is no picture perfect moment, every moment on the wall is a great moment!
There is no picture perfect moment, every moment on the wall is a great moment!

Also looking forward to those who are coming for their Yosemite Adventure really soon! I hope all the climbing training has paid off and the body is really to enjoy the splitter cracks and catch some really stunning views soon!

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